8/17/2004 at 1:12 am #7781
boots[Ed: Imported from Americas Roof ‘Summit Trip Reports’ forum][By: markv on August 17 2004 at 1:12 AM]Last summer, RMI said ok to the heavy leather La Sportivas i brought. I was much happier than the people i heard groaning about the double plastic boots. I brought thick wool socks and chemical warmers as insurance. You might consider trying the same. Just be sure to try them out for warmth and crampon stability ahead of time…
I’m one who voiced complanits about RMI. (I did summit, and i wasn’t expecting to be pampered… but heck they had me carrying an extra rope and LEADING a rope team at one point.) I think it has a LOT to do with which guides you get, and none of the ones you mentioned were on my trip. Thanks for mentioning by name ones you thought were good…it could be useful future info.
9/10/2004 at 7:32 pm #7782
Re: Mt. Rainier attempt #1, July 26, 27, 28, 2004[Ed: Imported from Americas Roof ‘Summit Trip Reports’ forum][By: Greg Rosenthal on September 10 2004 at 7:32 PM]Hi Jerry,
Not sure if you remember me, but I was part of the same RMI climb as you in July…my name’s Greg, I was the tall 19-year old with dark hair and glasses, and I was on JJ’s rope on summit day (I made it, Rainier was #6 for me).. Im a fellow highpointer as well though I wasn’t at the convention…just wanted to thank you for taking the time to write this sport and I wanted to comment on a few things…
“Naturally we were disappointed but for the most part our spirits remained high and we regarded this as a positive experience in which we learned a great deal about ourselves, mountaineering in general and what we need to do to improve our chances of success on any future attempts at summitting Mt. Rainier”
I’m glad you took a positive attitude despite things not quite turning out how you hoped…I’ve been there myself and know exactly how you feel…my first try on Rainier was in 2000 when I was 15 years old and like you, I only made it to the first break after leaving Camp Muir then, because I was stumbling all over the place on the rocky parts before that break… but as soon as I got down safely, I knew that I would be heading back to finish the job…
“The main emphasis and concern with the RMI guides seems to be safety. Some people think that they are too quick to remove clients from the class or the climb, but after listening to them, and observing them, it is obvious to me that they only remove people if those people are safety concerns and may jeopardize themselves or the entire group.”
Definitely…RMI does an excellent job of running these trips (they’ve been at it for something like almost 40 years I think), and so they’ve got every “dotted i and t crossed” as the saying goes…in both my trips to Rainier there was never one time where I felt my safety was the least bit compromised, and I have the guides to thank for that…
“Our second guide was Jeff JJ Justman. He has also climbed many other mountains including Mt. Everest and he completed his 100th climb of Mt. Rainier with my group. I would have liked to been with him at the summit.”
In regards to JJ’s 100th summit up there, it was fairly anticlimatic, though I can tell you from firsthand experience that later that night in Ashford, he had quite a little celebration there (he had a few days off after this climb)…
“On the hike up to Camp Muir our group witnessed a spectacular avalanche as we watched the ice fall off one of the glaciers during the heat of the afternoon.”
I remember that as well, without a doubt the most amazing/spectacular thing Ive ever seen…
Anyways, good luck on your future trips!!
11/3/2004 at 6:08 pm #7783
Sure I remember you![Ed: Imported from Americas Roof ‘Summit Trip Reports’ forum][By: Jerry Bresnahan on November 3 2004 at 6:08 PM]Hi Greg,
Sorry I took so long to respond to your message. After driving home from the Konvention and Rainier, stopping to do the highpoints of ND, SD, and IA along the way, I was so busy trying to catch up with things I had to do for my wifes business, and the many other chores I had to do around the house, I didnt have much time to check out the forum before heading out on my next trip. I recently got home from a month in Florida. I stopped and did the Highpoints of FL and MS on the way. I hope to catch up on my trip reports soon. MY HP total is now at 29!
Sure I remember you. Im glad that you made it to the summit. Congratulations! I was still in Ashford when your group arrived. I talked with, and congratulated, a few of the guys that afternoon. I also witnessed the beginning of JJs celebration. Sorry I missed you.
Thanks for taking the time to read my trip report, which I realize, after looking at it again, was way too long. I think I got a bit carried away. For a week or two after I got home I was so consumed with thoughts and emotions about my experience that I felt compelled to write them all down, a little each day.
I appreciate your comments. I found it interesting that we both failed on our first attempts to climb Rainier, in pretty much the same location in very similar ways. I hope I am as successful in my second attempt as you were. I expect to give it another try within the next few years. I plan on doing Mt. Hood, and some of the easier peaks first to try to gain some experience and improve my conditioning.
Enjoy the rest of your highpoints on your way to the big 50! I hope to see you at a future Konvention or on another climb someplace.
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