The Last One …. Mauna Kea #50

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[Ed: Imported from Americas Roof ‘Summit Trip Reports’ forum]

[By: Dick Bowers on December 14 2004 at 11:39 PM]

[Link: http://www.network54.com/Forum/198362/message/1103085575/The+Last+One+….+Mauna+Kea+%2350]

I saved a great vacation for my last highpoint. After a few days on Oahu with my wonderful wife, Kay, and then a great Thanksgiving week together with my brother and sister-in-law in Kauai, I was cut lose on my own on the Big Island.

I flew in to Hilo on Saturday, November 27th and got a rental car from Hertz. They didn’t say anything about the saddle road, and I didn’t ask. Off to a private room at Arnott Lodge. The next morning was sunny and warm and I was up at 7 and headed over to Ken’s House of Pancakes (highly recommended) for an overload breakfast. By 8 I was heading up the Saddle Road. About 3000 feet elevation, mile marker 14, the weather changed and drive into the coulds, mist and rain. Around mile marker 20, I picked up two wet hitchhickers that had come over “little sister” Mauna Loa, and we headed up to Mauna Kea. We turned off the Saddle Road and headed up to the Onizuka Visitor Center, arriving there about 8:45. At 9 the center opened for business, with nice and very hospitible staff. The Center is located at 9300 feet, and provides hot chocolate and microwavable goodies. My plan was to hang out at the visitor center until 10am or so to do a bit of acclimitizing (You are after all popping up from sea level to over 9000 feet in less than an hour, and you have another 4500 to go). I decided that since is was my last highpoint, I would walk up from the Center, which is a six mile trek.

At 10, I headed up the mountain. The trailhead is up the road from the Center about 200 yards on the left. The trail is well marked and remarkably unremarkable. How much volcanic scree can you handle? It took me about 5 hours to get to the summit. The lack of oxygen was notible,but not a show stopper. The last quarter mile the trail goes back to the summit road and you are walking on asphalt. Once you get to the parking lot, the summit trail cuts off to the left into a small saddle and then a 150 yard or so walk to the summit. The Hawaiians have built a small alter there and suplications to the Gods are in evidence … leis, papayas, pineapples, and cookie crumbs. There was a smattering of snow just below the summit, but it was easy to walk over. As I reached the top, the resident mice, who seem to have found a great home among the alter rocks, ducked for cover. After the obligatory summit shot…nobody else was there. I headed down and was able to hitch a ride back to the Center.

It took me 5 hours to get hike to the summit. The trail is easy, but the oxygen is scare and makes for slow going. I encountered rain, sleet, hail, wind, and lots of sun on the trip up. I had four layers and used them all. Also, bring plenty of water (no water on the trail) and also gobs of sunscreen. It takes about 45 minutes to drive back to Hilo from the Visitor Center. There are a number of places to celebrate there. Try Reuben’s for Mexican and killer Margaritas. A great local Hawaiian place which features the one pound laulau is the Kuhio Grill. If you want to go upscale a bit, try the Cafe Pesto which features great Kona lobster and Kamuela beef. And, I moved to a great moderate hotel (moderate in Hawaii means less that $100 a day) the Dolphin Bay Hotel. Hotel owner John Alexander is very hiker friendly, and helped me map out a great next-day hike up Mauna Loa. So… the deed is done. 5o highpoints! Now what?

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